The Earth routes are those that cross the lands par excellence, called: Land of Fields, Land of Bread, Land of Wine. They are made up of the valleys and countryside of the eastern stretch of the province, whose names remind us of the open farmlands and the essential fruit of traditional human work in this area.
The enclaves of Benavente and Toro play a strategic role on these itineraries. And between the two, lies the Ruta de la Plata, whose significant historical presence is outstanding. It is the old Roman road whose construction was ordered by the emperor Tiberius in order to join Astúrica Augusta (Astorga) with Emérita (Mérida), the great meeting point for the roads of Roman Hispania.

TO THE NORTH OF THE RIVER DUERO

In the east of the province of Zamora, between the Esla and Duero rivers, lie the so-called Land of Bread and Land of Fields, the latter being also part of the provinces of Palencia and Valladolid.



We leave Zamora by the N-630, a road that runs parallel to the Vía de la Plata, and which was a cattle track by royal decree during the Middle Ages. Some 30 km later, we come to a road that leads to the Granja de Moreruela, which belongs to the Diocese of Astorga, and which harbours the spectacular solitary ruins of the Cistercian Monastery of Moreruela. Nowadays, there remain only vestiges of what was once one of the best examples of late-Romanic art. The monastery began its economic expansion and constructive remodelling when it became part of the Cistercian Order mid-12th century, but from its past splendour, only the magnificent upper end of its church of seven apses survives today.
2 km further along the N-630, we reach the turn-off, on the right, for the LAGUNAS DE VILLAFÁFILA. This has been a natural reserve since 1968 and, with over 30,000 hectares, the lakes, which experience severe seasonal changes, are home to one of the greatest and most diverse selection of water birds of the steppe: ducks, geese… and above all, great bustards, of which Villáfila is considered one of the greatest reserves in Europe. The migratory birds arrive with the autumn rain, fleeing from the cold of Northern Europe, and many stay for the winter, whilst others carry on to the park of Doñana. The reserve has a nature interpretation centre, which offers appropriate facilities for bird watching.
Another of the attractions of the Land of Fields are its typical adobe-walled dovecots, which in other times, played an important role in the economy. Villáfila has a centre dedicated to their research. To see a few examples of this attractive popular architecture, one may make a small trip from Villáfila itself to the nearby villages of SARIEGOS and VILLARÍN DE CAMPOS.
From Villáfila, we retake the N-630 towards Benavente. For those interested in baroque art, an option would be to turn off at BRETO, whose church of La Asunción has an interesting collection of altarpieces in this style.

BENAVENTE. Located at the confluence of the Órbigo and Esla rivers, at a height of 700 m above sea level, this town is surrounded by a rich agricultural and cattle-farming region. It is the old Roman “Interamia” and the medieval “Malgrad”. It enjoyed the height of its splendour between the 13th and 15th centuries, to which period its most important monuments belong: Santa María del Azogue, with its two Romanic façades and five apses, possibly of Moreruela influence; San Juan del Mercado, which is also Romanic, was finished in Gothic style in the 15th century, and has an outstanding façade and a varied collection of statues in its interior; the Renaissance Hospital de la Piedad, which is today used as an old people’s home, was founded by the Count of Benavente to aid the St. James pilgrims; the Castle-Palace de la Mota, also by the Count and Countess of Benavente. Of its former glory, only the spiral tower remains, embellished by the magnificent Mudejar coffered ceiling that was brought from the sanctuary of San Román del Valle, and is today part of the Parador de Turismo.
From Benavente, we may take the A-52, along the River Tera and up to the area of Sanabria, which belongs to the Diocese of Astorga, or continue along the A-6 up to Villalpando, crossing the Land of Fields, dotted with the dovecots whose best examples are to be found in CERECINOS or in VILLALPANDO itself.

SANABRIA offers the traveller an important collection of monuments and first-class countryside surroundings, led by the Lake of Sanabria Natural Park. Before arriving at the main town of the area, Puebla de Sanabria, we may visit, some 32 km from Benavente, the Romanic Church of Santa Marta de Tera. PUEBLA, dominated by the Castle of the Count of Benavente (15th century), forms an attractive monumental grouping of steep streets and emblazoned stately homes. Not far from the lake, along a winding road, we come to the Monastery of San Martín de Castañeda.

VILLALPANDO is the main town of the area of the Land of Fields that lies in the province of Zamora. Located on the banks of the River Valderaduey, it once had a strong medieval wall, of which there remain a few original towers and two magnificent gates: the gate of Santiago and the gate of San Andrés, the latter having been remodelled in the 16th century with the addition of two round turrets and heraldic decoration. It was the manor of the Velasco family, Condestables of Castile (the highest Castilian military rank), who built a grandiose fortress-palace, of which a few walls are preserved. Among the monuments in the town, the most outstanding are the two Mudejar churches of San Nicolás and San Pedro, both from the 12th century and altered during the 16th. The church of San Pedro holds the funeral chapel of the Castañones family. The remains of Santa María la Antigua (12th century) and the porticoes of the Plaza Mayor, which maintains the air typical of Castilian squares, witness to festivals, parades and Holy Week processions, are also worthy of special note.
From Villalpando, art lovers would do well to visit: VILLAMAYOR DE CAMPOS, and admire the beautiful Mudejar ceiling in its parish church; VILLAR DE FALLAVES, whose church has a spectacular Gothic-Isabelline façade, and CASTROVERDE DE CAMPOS, with the two interesting coffered ceilings, one of which is Mudejar, and the other Renaissance, in its Church of Santa María del Río.

TO THE SOUTH OF THE RIVER DUERO

Leaving Zamora by the N-630 takes us through the Land of Wine, famous for its wines and wineries. Its main centre is Toro, a growing winemaking authority, whose historical and artistic significance is referred to in the “Routes of the Air”. Our first stop is MORALES DE VINO, which is the location of the parish church of La Asunción. Its northern façade is one of the few examples of the plateresque style in the province. Its interior holds noteworthy works, with outstanding pieces such as the main altarpiece by Juan de Montejo, in 16th century mannerist style. Outside the village, and surrounded by a tree-filled meadow, stands the hermitage of El Cristo, from the 18th century. It is a devout hermitage, with a baroque altarpiece and a statue of Christ on the cross from the 14th century.



On the N-630, there is a small turn-off to EL PERDIGÓN. Its parish church contains a 16th century funeral chapel with a beautiful Hispano-Flemish altarpiece and a plateresque sepulchre. Underground wineries are very characteristic, and some of them have been turned into bars.

CORRALES DEL VINO. The church of La Magdalena, with its different building styles, is one of the largest in the province. In its interior, there is a Romanic statue from the mid-12th century and two of Christ from the 14th and 15th centuries.
At Cubo del Vino, there is a turn-off for the C-621, a country road that leads to Fuentesaúco.

FUENTESAÚCO. This is the centre of the Guareña region, and is renowned for its chickpeas, which are authenticated by their Designation of Origin. It has an interesting main square, which, in most part, is lined with porticoes, together with emblazoned houses, which show their now past importance. Its two most relevant churches are those of Santa María and San Juan Bautista.
Returning to Zamora by the N-605, we come to CASASECA DE LAS CHANAS, with a parish church from the end of the Gothic period, in which we may observe an outstanding mannerist altarpiece that is reminiscent of the Cathedral of Astorga.

ARCENILLAS. The church of La Asunción is from the 15th and 16th centuries. In its small museum, it is usual to find the magnificent set of 11 panels from the former altarpiece of the Cathedral of Zamora, and which is today on show in “The Ages of Man”. Its creator, Fernando Gallego, one of the most relevant Hispano-Flemish painters of the 15th century, developed his work primarily in Castilla y León.