If we speak of water in Zamora, then we must naturally refer to the Duero, the river “that takes in all waters”. With its water, it drains the often thirsty lands of Castilla y León, and abandons our country to become the Douro and finally disappear into the Atlantic.
However, we are not going to relate all our journey along the Duero to the sign of water, but rather only those routes around the western lands of the province of Zamora, in which water is particularly present: it flows in abundance through valleys, it stagnates in large reservoirs, and it squeezes through the impressive canyons of Las Arribes as it takes us closer and closer to our Portuguese neighbours. These western routes were also those which, via Bragança and Porto, or León up to Galicia, led many citizens of Zamora to emigration and the confrontation with the feared ocean waters on their way to the newfound lands of America.



ALISTE AND ALBA

The Campo de Aliste and the Tierra de Alba are situated in the northwest of the province of Zamora, in the setting of the Esla and Duero rivers. Far away from the traditional routes of mass tourism, they have maintained to the present day, the essence of the customs, folklore and way of life that few areas of today’s Spain have managed to keep. It is a land of great contrast, from the steepest places of the Sierra de la Culebra to the lowlands of the Aliste, Esla and Duero valleys, with important dams that produce 60% of the Peninsula’s hydraulic power.
12 km after leaving Zamora by the N-122 towards Alcañices – Bragança, is the turn-off for EL CAMPILLO, where we may find San Pedro de la Nave (7th century), one of the most important and best-preserved Visigoth churches in Spain. Its present position is not its original location, due to the fact that it had to be moved when the Ricobayo dam was built, in order to save it from the flooding. Almost unheard of until the 20th century, it is known that it was a priory of the Monastery of Celanova (in the province of Orense). It is made of reddish sandstone ashlars and has a basilica-like layout. Its interior boasts horseshoe arches and, of special note, story-telling relief on the capitals of the transept, which are the only ones of their kind. They represent two biblical scenes: Daniel in the lion pit, and the sacrifice of Isaac. Interestingly, on one of the ashlars on the triumphal arch, there appear numeric tables that were apparently used to calculate the liturgical year.
Returning to the N-122, we come across the villages of MUELAS DEL PAN and RICOBAYO, which are separated by the great dam on the River Esla. The important piece of engineering, the canyon created at the mouth of the river, and the modern bridge, provide other attractive reasons for visiting these places. From Ricobayo, on the ZA-324 road, we may travel to the hermitage of La Encarnación near VILLALCAMPO, which is a village that preserves the remains of its very old walls. Those interested in the results of engineering may admire, some kilometres away, the Villalcampo waterfall, on the Duero.
Back on the N-122 from Ricobayo, after approximately 17 km, we reach the turn-off for PINO, where we may find a bridge over the Duero – “Puente Pino” – built at the beginning of the 10th century, and which joins the regions of Sayago and Aliste. It is an outstanding piece of engineering, and for a long time, was the bridge with the largest span in the country.
The N-122 leads to Fonfría and to ALCAÑICES. This frontier locality, the main town of the region of Aliste, belonged originally to the Count and Countess of Portugal, and later to the Order of the Knight Templars. Formerly a fortified village, it now keeps only four round turrets or towers of its walls, with the Torre del Reloj (Clock Tower) being the most outstanding. Other noteworthy monuments are its parish church, with a façade from the 13th century and the Franciscan convent, built in Renaissance style from the 16th century.
If lunchtime coincides with the end of our journey, 9 kilometres away we have SAN VITERO, where the traveller might wish to try its famous meat dishes, or at a distance of 18 km is the village of NUEZ DE ALISTE, which preserves all the beauty of the popular architecture of this area.
Coming back towards Zamora, along the N-122, turn left at FONFRÍA onto the ZA-941 towards CARBAJALES DE ALBA, famous for its interesting embroidery. Before reaching the village, it is almost an obligation to visit the Castle of Alba, which is best accessed at MUGA DE ALBA. Located on high ground and surrounded by the River Aliste, it dates from the 12th century, with additions form the 15th. It was built by the knight templars as a defence from the attacks of the Portuguese. In the 15th century, King Henry IV gave it to the Count of Alba de Aliste, lord of the area and member of the most powerful aristocratic lineage of Zamora.
Following the ZA-900 from Carbajales de Alba, we cross the Esla reservoir along the MANZANAL DEL BARCO bridge, built to replace its former counterpart, which was covered by the waters of the reservoir. From this bridge, and in the distance, one may see the Martín Gil viaduct. Built between 1929 and 1942 for the railway line to Galicia, its central span (209 m) has been the world’s largest concrete construction for a long time. Along the same road, through holm oak woods, we arrive at La Hiniesta.

LA HINIESTA is famous for the church of Santa María la Real, home to the Romanic statue of Our Lady of La Hiniesta, which, according to legend, was found by King Sancho IV during a hunt. In honour of Our Lady, the monarch ordered the construction of the beautiful church that we today admire, awarding it several donations. The temple was built between the 13th and 16th centuries. Its most outstanding feature is its magnificent façade and Gothic porticoes, which still preserve part of their multi-coloured appearance. Inside the church, behind the main altarpiece, is a collection of interesting 14th century murals that are related with the “French Gothic” style. In 1944, the church of Santa María la Real de Hiniesta was declared a national monument.

EL SAYAGO AND LAS ARRIBES

This area is located on the peneplain that takes in the provinces of Zamora and Salamanca. Its granite substratum may be seen in the stone walls that border its farm fields. It is an interesting area of land, in which water is dominant and there exists an ecosystem typical of spongy meadows with holm oaks and beech.
Leaving Zamora by the C-527 towards Fermoselle, we reach PERERUELA. Its red clays, with their mica components, are ideal for the manufacture of the popular pottery of the same name: cooking pots, roasting trays, ovens, etc.
Next, we come across BERMILLO DE SAYAGO, the centre of the region of El Sayago. Traditional country life has left its mark here, seen by the way in which its mostly granite buildings of very varied designs and uses have been adapted to the environment: houses with patio and farmyard, vine stores, wine presses, mills, fountains, drinking troughs, stork roosts, ovens, etc. All of which are readily appreciated and worth seeing.
A 15 km detour along the ZA-321 takes us across the Duero and up to MIRANDA DO DOURO, in Portugal. Following this detour gives us the opportunity to visit our neighbouring country. It is the Duero that joins together Portugal and Spain and it is in Miranda do Douro where the area of Las Arribes begins. Here, the Duero has dug out gorges and ravines of up to 500 m. Joined to the almost 20 km stretch up to Fermoselle, it turns into a natural area of incredible beauty, not only due to the tantalisingly winding lie of the land, but also because of its superb wealth and variety of flora and fauna (griffon vulture, black vulture, black stork, golden eagle, peregrine falcon, etc.). Part of this area may be visited by boat; departing from Mirando do Douro, they take the traveller through the gorges.
After the round trip, we return to Bermillo de Sayago heading towards Fermoselle along the C-527. Before getting there, some 30 km from Bermillo, there is a turn-off towards FORNILLOS DE FERMOSELLE and PINILLA, home to spectacular viewpoints over Las Arribes. From here, we may contemplate the Mediterranean-style terraced crop-fields that make use of the microclimate created by the depression dug out by the Duero.

FERMOSELLE. An ancient pre-Roman village, where the Duero meets the Tormes, this is the main town of the region of El Sayago. Its steep narrow streets, its houses with their popular architecture, many of them with porticoes, and its castle, owned by Bishop Acuña, and the last refuge of the Comuneros in their confrontation with the Emperor Charles V, encourage us to think about a historically important past. Worthy of visit are the churches of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción and Santa Coloma, both from the 12th century, as well as the Torojón viewpoint, one of the places from where one may see not only the village, but also the province of Salamanca and the lands of Portugal.
Returning towards Zamora, we cross the enormous Almendra Reservoir, which is fed by the Duero and Tormes rivers.